Trail Greetings!

"This trail will ruin my life!"

I was reading an article about the East Sammamish Bike Trail, a Rails to Trails conversion proposal, when this woman's words jumped off the page. She was claiming her life would be ruined if the trail was built. Really?

I've thought about that woman and her words often. When I ride the Burke Gilman trail I remember all the rage from those who opposed the trail. Biking or hiking trail, it doesn't matter -- the Trail of the Coeur d'Alene, the Pacific Crest Trail, South Dakota's Mickelson Trail, the Spokane River Centennial Trail, California's American River Trail -- there are always those who support and those who don't.

Once a trail is built the land owners along the trail display their positions. The folks not liking the trail build tall fences with locked gates and security cameras. They post "guard dog on duty" or "no trespassing" signs. Conversely those who embrace the trail build pathways from their homes to the trail for access. Kids sell lemonade. Tiny produce and fresh egg stands appear. Charming little hand lettered messages of welcome are hung on trees. Trail angels provide a bench to rest on or cold water to refill bike bottles.

The divide of "it's mine" or "let's share" runs deep in this nation. We see it everywhere we go, and our political battles often can be broken down into this simple, but profoundly different philosophy. As a trail user I try to be respectful of these differences but I do find myself feeling saddened or pleased by a trail's shunning or welcoming stance.

Early in our ride on the Trail of the Coeur d'Alene we saw a number of "we don't want you" signs posted by property owners as we approached Harrison, a sweet little historic town. It's off putting, but the town wins us over despite the lack of welcome along the trail. By automobile the welcome couldn't be clearer...

Businesses welcome us as well. They make their establishments charming and deliver cheerful greetings when we enter. The Tin Cup in Harrison provides not only espresso and free internet but outstanding home-baked pastries, along with warm smiles. I had a right-out-of-the-oven cranberry-orange scone to die for!

Later in the day we stop, based on a local recommendation, at the Snake Pit in Enaville. My dark, cold beer was called Moose Drool. Our chicken sandwiches were thick and full of good stuff, including grilled green peppers. And the next day, after 15 miles on the trail, Ed ordered a most lavish dessert for lunch --- a steaming warm brownie, topped with ice cream and chocolate sauce, topped again with whipped cream, with a cherry plunked on top, naturally. The following day we returned again.

Further up the trail, in Kellog, we ride by an old train station that's been converted into a charming bike shop, Excelsior Cycle and Sport. We put our tandem in reverse. Ed buys a new biking shirt as we chat with the owner.

Continuing east we experience non-stop Idaho friendliness, delivered with hellos and smiles and a country graciousness.

Thank you Trail of the Coeur d'Alene! The ride is sweet!

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"Good Morning! Good Afternoon! Good Night! These are not just mere greetings. They are powerful blessings, setting the best vibration for the day. Hence, whether it is morning, afternoon or night, make sure that you say your greeting right!"

~ Franco Santoro

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Covering the Miles

Since leaving Patagonia, we have traveled past magnificent rock outcroppings; up high mountains and then down the other side then up again; across acres of mountain grass lands, some perfectly flat other times rolling and steep; through forests of short rounded lollipop junipers suddenly morphing into pines as we again gain elevation.

And, to our delight, fields of wildflowers.

And, to our sorrow, acres of wildfire remnants.

The miles provide fascination between long stretches of monotony, but then, after not paying attention for a spell, fascination again. We've been traveling the southeast Arizona and southwest New Mexico scenic highways, avoiding interstates whenever possible. The populations are very sparse; towns few and mostly dead or dying.

Our first night out from Patagonia was Chiricahua National Monument. We will return to Chiricahua in May to trail angel for Yessi and Brad as they map for Green Trail Maps. Because we plan to return 

we didn't spend lots of time exploring, but did grab the opportunity to scrutinize camps and resupply options.

Cochise Head

Massi Point

Gila Box Riparian National Conservation area, our next stop, was interesting, remote, and is largely undiscovered. The Gila River access, in the canyon below our camp, was the beginning of a 23 mile float, through canyon walls 500 feet high. Kayaks! We need kayaks!

In talking with a couple of kayakers, they suggested The Catwalk, a National Recreation Trail in New Mexico. That became our next destination, resulting in a huge disappointment as it was temporally closed. However, scenic Highway 180 was certainly no disappointment.

Surprise Christmas trees appeared from time-to-time, just to keep us on our toes, I guess.

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"Embrace all emotions: sadness, happiness, sorrow, hate, love, prejudice, fear; they are weapons

against our greatest enemy: indifference."

- Dave Matthes

Wanderlust and the Whiskey Bottle Parallel: Poems and Stories

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Working, Playing, Enjoying

Patagonia, Arizona

What an amazing transformation this sweet little home has seen with Penny and Rob's combined good eye and Michael's mean brush.

From this...

To this...

While here I have been doing a little landscape design consultation, but lots more enjoying, visiting, laughing, eating and basking in the warmth of Arizona and Langley friendships.

Between these two buildings there will be a two-tiered flagstone patio. The elevations will be retained with dry stack walls using local stone collected on site or close by. Plantings will be Arizona through and through!

Both Ed and I are quite taken with Patagonia. It is a small (1000 people or so) town, with a delightful character along with the necessary amenities. A great hang-out coffee shop; outstanding organic grocer; stylish and charming clothing store; fun and rowdy town tavern; a Politically Incorrect Gas Station; and a shady park right down the middle of town.

We parked Thistle on Penny and Rob's driveway for several nights, enjoying a dark, dark star-filled night sky, and a beautiful view by day.

The party began breaking up with Rob's departure on Wednesday and Michael's and ours on Thursday. Penny leaves next week.

Saying goodbye to a beautiful view

It was difficult to move on from Patagonia, but here we are. Our camp tonight is at Chiricahua National Monument in Southeast Arizona. We're checking it out for our May Trail angeling activities, when Yessi and Brad will be hiking and mapping for Green Trail Maps. The splendor is glorious!

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"There is nothing better than a friend, unless it is a friend with chocolate."

- Linda Grayson

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Celebrating the Trail

The Pacific Crest Trail, San Diego County, CA

We've crossed the PCT three times this week. Once just outside Julian, and now two separate times on Sunrise Highway.

It's interesting to be near the PCT and feel the emotions it awakens in me. First is the mom's pride I feel in Brad for thru-hiking this trail in 2012. Then as I hike sections myself, I have a sense of walking with Brad. I keep asking Benton, "Can you smell Brad?" No reply, but I must say, I feel close to him. Thirdly, is the love I feel for this wonderful son of mine when I think about this huge and successful undertaking.

Ed & Benton, PCT

Fran, PCT

PCT in Anza Borrego

Tonight we are boondocked on a little side road off the Sunrise Highway. The side road dead ends right on the PCT and must be crossed by the hikers. This would be a terrific location to set up a trail angel operation, when the hikers start coming through in April. Parked here tonight, with blackout shades pulled down and doors locked, I feel slightly uneasy. It is isolated, with the wind blowing so hard it is rocking Thistle from side-to-side. Then I think of Brad, camped along this isolated trail, with no tent, often all alone, for the entire 2600 miles.

PCT with Thistle way down on the road where we boondocked.

We discovered another interesting tradition just south of where we are boondocked. There is an informal clustering of memorial plaques overlooking the Anza Borrego Desert.

And, plaques for folks' dogs, as well.

We wonder how these memorial locations get started, and why they cluster as they do. We saw another clustering of about a dozen plaques at Twin Lakes, near Bridgeport, CA. Up here it could be the view, which is spectacular. According to a man we talked with it is also a huge gathering place to watch meteor showers.

Ed hearing about meteor showers.

PCT overlooking Anza Borrego

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"The longest journey begins with a single step."

- Lao Tsu, Tao Te Ching

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