Happy Trails to You

 Cedar Mesa, Utah

We are covered with dust. The dust rises in a fine, red volcanic-like cloud whenever one of us moves. We haven't had showers for five days. Disgustingly dirty comes to mind. And Thistle? Beyond disgustingly dirty.

We are driving the backroads of Utah looking for hikes to take us to ancient cliff dwellings. The ruins are often a mile to several miles up canyons. They are built on south-facing walls, under deep rock overhangs, near springs. "Look, perhaps up there...up there in that 'mouth'."

Our roads of access to the canyons are single-lane, dusty and washboard bumpy. Thistle bounces about like a poorly gaited horse.

These explorations up the canyons turn, not just the dog, but all three of us into gleeful puppies. The wild dramatic mesa and the treasure-hunt of finding cliff dwellings, gets our blood pumping. Unfortunately, my ankle is giving out before my enthusiasm. Darn ankle! We slow down but we don't stop. Next, the Mule Ruins, right along Scenic Route 95.

Followed by a six mile hike up the South Mule Canyon where we see three cliff dwellings. We skip the North Mule Canyon hike, a concession to my ankle.

From there we find Butler Wash Road, along Comb Ridge. Butler Road is a 20 mile stretch with canyons to explore between every tooth of the comb. After driving seven slow, jar-to-the-bone miles, we boondock for the night. This is perhaps the first night in my life where I see no lights. Far off into the distance, nothing! Lots and lots of stars and dark!

In the morning we hike into Cool Springs Canyon, finding three ancient cliff dwelling sites.

And guess what else we find? Phil! Flagstaff-Whidbey Island Phil. We knew he was on Cedar Mesa hiking and camping, but not exactly where since we'd missed a couple of "check points". Then, most unexpectedly, after our Cool Springs hike, we pulled into the Monarch Cave trailhead parking lot for lunch, and there was his truck. We waited. We were rewarded!

Sand Hill Petroglyphs, to top the day off.

We're satiated and tired! All this seeking out of cliff dwellings; hiking intriguing canyons; pondering petroglyphs; bouncing along bumpy roads; and being wowed again and again with dramatic views, has worn us out.

Laundry, showers, dinner, and the day is done.

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"Happy trails to you, until we meet again.

Happy trails to you, keep smilin' until then.

Who cares about the clouds when we're together?

Just sing a song and bring the sunny weather.

 Happy trails to you, 'till we meet again." *

Roy Rogers

* When Ed was five he wanted to be Roy Rogers. He insisted his mom call him Roy.

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Home Sweet Home

Whidbey Island, WA

April 15 is a big day for our FrEdLey home. Tiny House Nation is filming for a T.V. program. Yessi and Brad will both be interviewed, with Brad, the designer and builder, featured as the story teller. This is one of those times when being here, not there, is very difficult.

Then, this coming Sunday, we will be missing Yessi and Brad's big party -- their first year anniversary celebration.  We want to be there for that as well!

Happy Anniversary dear Yessi and Brad! We wish we were there to celebrate with you, but we're kicking up our heels celebrating anyway.

One of the most difficult parts of traveling is missing family and friends, but especially missing Brad and Yessi.. One consolation is we will see them both in May when we trail angel for them back in Arizona in the Coronado National Forest, home of Chiricahua National Monument.

We will then return to Whidbey Island in mid June to tend to various details like dentist appointments, and other follow-up health stuff, and to enjoy summer in the northwest, which can't be beat anywhere! Our home is rented so we will enjoy the Brad-Yessi Campground.

We're feeling much joy in anticipation of seeing everyone.

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"I may not always be with you

But when we're far apart

Remember you will be with me

Right inside my heart"

- Marc Wambolt, Poems from the Heart

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A very grand canyon!

Grand Canyon, Arizona

Grand, meaning magnificent and imposing in appearance, size, or style. Canyon, 277 miles (446 km) long, up to 18 miles (29 km) wide and attains a depth of over a mile (6,000 feet or 1,800 meters) = Grand Canyon

The Grand Canyon is indeed grand. Deep, wide, long, and gasp-generating beautiful. There isn't much that you have not already seen in some publication or friend's slide show, or by visiting the Grand Canyon yourself, except for seeing Ed, Benton and me on the rim. So,

Daaaada...

What the Grand Canyon travel writers neglect to mention are the crowds and crowds and crowds of people, cars, RV's, bicycles, strollers, buses, and dogs, all maneuvering for a piece of the action. Rim walkers, trail hikers, river runners, bicycle riders and tour bus travelers are all wanting to see this magnificant place.

After walking a portion of the rim our first day, we set out to find a place to stay, and return to the rim early the next day in hopes of beating the crowds. Everything was full -- hotels, camp grounds, RV camps -- everything! One woman, at a camp ticket office, directed us to a boondock location just outside the south gate. A perfect location, especially for the early morning start we planned the next day.

We weren't sunrise early, but we did beat the crowd. We rode our bikes along the rim and through the park, stopping often to peer at the canyon from various viewpoints, all before the masses arrived. Once the crowds began pouring in, we were driving out.

These photos are from one of our last stops before leaving the park, pleasing us with both the canyon views, and the architecture of the Watchtower, designed by Mary Colter (1869 - 1958).

This view point also marks the location of a historically significant 1956 airline crash, attracting enough attention to stimulate the formation of the FAA.

Our last viewpoint had quite a story associated with it. A couple pulled up ahead of us and scurried off to the edge, with the man going out onto the point and then out of sight. Some time later, he scrambled back, saying, "There are two cars down there." Then adding, "One of the cars, early one morning, a number of years ago, was driven over the edge. By noon, the driver had climbed back up the bluff and was found walking on the road." It leaves one wondering how this man, intent on ending his life, felt after he survived his wild suicide ride down the cliff.

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"You cannot see the Grand Canyon in one view, as if it were a changeless spectacle from which a curtain might be lifted, but to see it, you have to toil from month to month through its labyrinths."

- John Wesley Powell

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Delight follows Delight!

Flagstaff, Arizona

We think we would have liked Flagstaff no matter what, but having friends there certainly cinched it. Liza and Phil, of Whidbey Island fame, were our delightful hosts. Liza's art always delights; their Flagstaff home is whimsical and comfortably welcoming; and Phil and Liza are both interesting and well informed conversationalists.

As avid outdoor people, they know the trails and best camping spots for miles around Flagstaff. Phil, formerly with the Grand Canyon Trust, and a rafting and hiking guide, graciously sent us on our way with four pages of typed notes and a map. He estimated the activities he outlined would keep us busy from five to ten days.

Here we go!

First, the Grand Canyon, but that's a separate posting, followed by  Monument Valley...

We spend our first night camped at Utah's Gooseneck State Park overlooking the San Juan River.

But that glory was quickly outdone by beautiful Muley Point on Cedar Mesa, high up over Gooseneck, by way of eight miles up the steepest, narrowest, gravel road imaginable. This road, Muki Dugway, twisted into hairpins, S's, U's, and every contortion imaginable in those few miles. Although Muley Point could be a dramatic trip highlight, Phil's notes and tales of hiking, imply we have even more glorious exploration ahead.

In this first photograph, you can just see Gooseneck State Park, out on the plateau past the crack in the stone. Thistle is parked up on the highest plateau to the left.

Thistle boondocked for the night...

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"Heaven is under our feet as well as over our heads."

- Henry David Thoreau, Walden

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The Road Messes with Us!

Change! Oh my, the adjustments, frustrations, realignments and pleasures that come with change. They can shake one up pretty good! And, butt-to-butt living in Thistle is change -- change with a capital C. This kind of change translates into readjustment at almost every level, including getting to know one another all over again, even after thirty years of marriage. In fact, I said to Ed one day, "This feels like we're going through our first year of marriage adjustment all over again."

This life-trip we've ventured into is a mixed bag of emotional and behavioral enlightenments. We have been on the road for 53 days now and in that time, we've both questioned almost everything. We've also both said to one another, more than once, "Isn't this the most wonderful thing we've ever done?"

Before departure, talking about our Thistle living room being the wide open world was one thing, but now, on the road, there are long periods of time when our living room is a 6 x 5 capsule. "Go to your room until you can play nicely" is no longer an option. We cannot run away from one another, or worse, from ourselves.

I have blurted out, in moments of frustration, "We've made a horrible mistake. What in the world were we thinking?" For those of you who know Mr. Ed well, know I'm greeted with silence. Awk! How I hate my outbursts to sink into a quagmire of silence.

Then, after a spell, we move on. We discover the road changes us, providing just the right stimulation to pull us out of our funk. We find delight in locating the perfect coffee shop or boon docking location. Benton's cute antics make us laugh. We meet interesting new friends, doing what we're doing. Our senses are awakened with the beauty of the landscape. Our conversation is boosted with the things we see. Tiny Thistle feels cozy and safe and just right again.

Yep, we have not ventured out on the easiest adventure, but we will not suffer boredom.

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"You got to mess with people, otherwise, they sink into a cryonic torpor."

- Utah Phillips

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