Monday, April 6, 2015

Charming Jerome

Jerome, Arizona

Once a thriving mining town, then a ghost town, then a hippie town, now a funky mostly tourist town. We ate at a restaurant where we ordered on one side of the street and, wanting to sit outside on a little dog-friendly patio overlooking the street, ate on the other. The waiter, running back and forth, got quite the workout.

























Perhaps we'll return today to eat at the Haunted Hamburger.

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"Be hole, be dust, be dream, be wind/Be night, be dark, be wish, be mind,/Now slip, now slide, now move unseen,/Above, beneath, betwixt, between."
- Neil Gaiman, The Graveyard Book

Reactions!

Sedona, Arizona

My reaction as we entered Sedona was love at first sight. Unfortunately that love, all too quickly, turned a bit sour, morphing into a love-hate state. My first reaction, however, was very important. I will never forget the powerful and beautiful natural landscape the town of Sedona is set in. Magical!







Unfortunately it is too quickly spoiled by huge swaths of sprawling development, even onto the tops of beautiful red rock outcrops.






Sedona is a fancy town full of fine restaurants, galleries, and some excellent architecture. It is also, as one friend described it, "Vortex. Woo Woo!" If you want to zip line into an African safari jungle over lions, and other wild animals, you can. Or, other options, if you don't like the zip line idea are helicopter, jeep, hummer, hot air balloon, or train sightseeing options.

If you have a dog, forget all of the above, including the Red Rock State Park, where "No Pets" are welcome.

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"Everything money and bad taste can buy."
- Louise Grant Pruitt


Sunday, April 5, 2015

Juxtaposition

Sedona, Arizona

Architecture can be so stunningly beautiful one can only stand and stare. The Chapel of the Holy Cross in Sedona, Arizona, a compelling Sedona landmark since its completion in 1956, is such a building. Many sources say it was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. But, in digging deeper, others say it was designed by Marguerite Brunswig Staude, a pupil of Frank Lloyd Wright. The final source seems to attribute Marguerite Brunswig Staude to commissioning it, but  the actual design to  the firm of Anshen and Allen, where project architects Richard Hein and August Strotz finalized Marguerite’s long-held vision.





In shocking juxtaposition, is this home as viewed from the courtyard of The Chapel of the Holy Cross.





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"Building becomes architecture only when the mind of man consciously takes it and tries with all his resources to make it beautiful, to put concordance, sympathy with nature, and all that into it. Then you have architecture."

― Frank Lloyd Wright


Friday, April 3, 2015

The Rim

We were traveling Arizona Highway 280, an up-down, up-down, highway, with elevations upwards of 5,000 feet, listening to Willie, as we rolled along. At a place called Forest Lakes, FS Road 237, we spotted a number of tents on our map. Off to the right we went. Camp ground after camp ground was closed for the season, not to open until May. This high country, usually covered in snow this time of the year, was warm and sunny.  In this warmth, it seemed strange to find the camp grounds closed.

With no camp grounds open, we decided to boondock in a vista turnout and risk being rousted out in the middle of the night.













After a lovely evening stroll along The Rim, elevation 7500 feet, we blacked Thistle's windows out, ate dinner and retired, hoping to be invisible. The next morning, after no night time disturbance from the boondock police, we walked and rode our bikes along the wonderful rim pathways and roadways. Explored Willow Springs Lake. Hung out. This is an Arizona I didn't know existed. I'm enchanted!


Grove of Oaks along the rim.

Rim stones

Old man juniper



A path (sometimes a trail) running about five miles along the rim
We biked to the closed ranger station

Ed & Fran
Ann Marie & Chris, NY
Willow Springs Lake
Benton, watching and waiting for the stick to be thrown
Morning Sun

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"If Music is a Place -- then Jazz is the City, Folk is the Wilderness, Rock is the Road, Classical is a Temple."
- Vera Nazarian



Where did all the color go?

Lyman Lake, Arizona

Lyman Lake is midway between St. Johns and Eagar on Highway 191, in southeast Arizona.


When the Hopi inhabited this 1,200-acre park, Lyman Lake did not exist. The lake was created as an irrigation reservoir by damming the Little Colorado River and is fed by snowmelt from the slopes of Mount Baldy and Escudilla Mountain.

We loved how monochromatic the landscape is with the land, water and shrubbery all blending and melding together so one can hardly tell where one leaves off and another begins.






Hiking along one of the trails, high above the lake, we viewed petroglyphs, which can be found throughout the park. The landscape creates a stunning backdrop for the ancient artwork.














Benton only had eyes for one more stick throw.



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"The sky is like a monochromatic contemporary painting, drawing me in its illusion of depth, pulling me up."

― John Green, Paper Towns


Thursday, April 2, 2015

Rumination


We're finding wonderful people, everywhere.  One young man, several grocery stops ago, was charmingly uninformed.  When asked if the chicken was organic, he said, "Honestly, I don't know."  When we asked if he knew if it was range fed, he answered, "Honestly, I don't know."  The conversation continued on like this, with him responding each time with "Honestly, I don't know."   Yet, each time, with a big, apologetic, kind smile.

In Needles, CA we were looking for a grocery store.   We stopped and asked a woman working at a gas station where to find a grocery.  Apologetically, she said, "There isn't one."  In our stunned silence, she went on to say,  "Nope, no grocery store in Needles.  It's across the state line in Arizona, about 20 miles away."  But, with a shrug of her shoulders, she went on to say, "We have five marijuana stores."  Town after town, grocery stores are surprisingly difficult to locate, but in Needles, a town of several thousand people, there wasn't even one.

In small towns, and in larger towns as well, the shops with real products and real services are disappearing.  Empty, boarded up buildings take their place.  There is a  sadness in people's eyes when they tell us they have no grocery, or coffee shop, or hardware store, or bakery.  They always add, "We had one until ..."

Along the highways, there is a proliferation of fast food restaurants, gas stations, junk food groceries, dollar stores and huge box stores.  Each larger town greets visitors with a lineup of billboards announcing the usual corporate America logos.  These businesses do provide jobs, but they are jobs that do not pay a living wage, never mind job satisfaction.  Yet the people working at the few such businesses we've visited, treat us with respect and a cheerful resignation. 

As we travel, we find the beauty of this country's lands stunningly dramatic and awe inspiring.   Yet, we are concerned about the towns, which seem to be either dying a slow death of poverty or of an ugly death of corporate sprawl.    The few exceptions we find are noteworthy.  And our parks, well, quite frankly, our beautiful and wonderful parks and public spaces, like this country's infrastructure, are in rapid decay. 

Our campfire  is the quiet, safe place we question what we are seeing and what we are experiencing and how our experiences are stacking up against our expectations.   Although we both acknowledge that 45 days is too soon to know for sure the accuracy of our observations, we do share a deep concern for our country's health and welfare.    Decay and poverty throb at the core of  local businesses; streets and highways are in disrepair; entire towns are dying; parks, schools, and public spaces desperately need maintenance; homelessness is wide spread; and people's homes are falling apart.

Economic recovery?  No, not yet, at least not yet at the level of the ordinary man.

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“There is a crime here that goes beyond denunciation. There is a sorrow here that weeping cannot symbolize. There is a failure here that topples all our success.” 

- John Steinbeck, The Grapes of Wrath



Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Big Horn Sheep


Rough estimates of desert bighorn sheep in North America in pristine times is unknown, but pre-Columbian numbers of all subspecies of bighorn sheep in North America has been estimated to be 1.5 - 2.0 million. By 1960, however, the overall bighorn population in the United States, including desert bighorns, had dwindled to 15,000  - 18,200.

By 1990, according to estimates, there were 6,000 Arizona bighorn sheep, with their numbers  tending upward. Given these low numbers, and how high up on the rocks and cliffs their hangouts are, we didn't think we had much of a chance to see them. But, we did! Right in the town of Clifton, Arizona.













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"We can judge the heart of a man by his treatment of animals."

- Immanuuel Kant